After moving to a new home, and kissing my outdoor kitchen area goodbye, I had to build a grill table for my Large Big Green Egg. After looking at a lot of ideas, this is the grill table design I finally went went with. I have designed it to be easy to build and even more fun to use. It has a ton of storage in the cabinets and a lot of countertop space on each side of the smoker. Over the past 4 years, I have really enjoyed using it, but more importantly, a lot of readers have enjoyed building and using this table too! See some of their amazing tables below……
Grill Tables Built by Readers like You
This grill table was originally designed for a Large Big Green Egg or Classic Joe Kamado Joe. However, I am happy to say I have added plans for XL sized Green Eggs and Kamado Joes as well for this same table below, so you can build a table for Large or XL Kamados.
Basic Grill Table Dimensions
This table is built to give you almost 3 ft of space on each side of the smoker, and grill cabinets to hold charcoal, grill grates, and all of your accessories.
The built size is: 8 ft long x 3 ft deep x 3 ft tall
The best part about building your own table is… you can customize the table any way you want. Feel free to make changes. I built this table entirely out of cedar material. You can use pine if you want to save some money, just make sure to seal it or have it under a canopy to extend its life. Let’s get started…
Tools & Hardware Needed to Build Your Grill Table
I have built a number of grill tables for Green Eggs and Pellet Smokers. The basic toolset you absolutely need is: Circular Saw, Jig Saw, Power Drill / Driver, Drill Bits, Clamps, Table Saw, Measuring Tapes, and Carpentry Squares.
However, there are a lot of tools and hardware choices that make your table build a lot easier and a lot less time consuming. You can find my detailed full list of Tools, Fasteners, and Hardware for your grill table build below in my Free Tools and Resources Guide…
Download my Full Grill Table Tools & Resources Guide
Types of Lumber Needed to Build your Table
- 2″ x 4″ x 8 ft Cedar
- 1″ x 6″ x 8 ft Cedar
- 1″ x 2″ x 8 ft Cedar
- 1″ x 4″ x 8 ft Cedar
- 1″ x 8″ x 8 ft Cedar
If you want a full material list with Detailed Instruction and Plans with Dimensions, Material Purchase Lists, and Cut Lists, you will want the full E-Book Download Below for Large and XL Kamados….
Green Egg Table Videos
While building this table and another big green egg table, I made videos that will help you visualize some of the steps you have to take during the build. Feel free to reference theses videos as you build your own table.
Building your DIY Big Green Egg Table
The best way to build your green egg table is to break it into several steps that you can achieve in several hours at a time. Below are the basic steps we will take to build the table.
- Framing the Table
- Installing the Countertop and Shelving
- Installation of the sides and the back of the Green Egg Table
- Cutting the Countertop
- Installing Trim Work
- Installing Doors and Hardware
Cut and measure as you go to save yourself some time from fixing mistakes. I have rarely had success when cutting every piece up front… I always make a mistake… I mean I always “change the plans” on the fly.
Step 1: Framing the Table
The first step to building your Green Egg Table is constructing the main frame. It is the most important step, as it provides the strength needed for durability and also determines all of the finished dimensions as you build out the table.
Step 2: Installing the Countertop and Shelving
After the main framing out of 2×4’s is completed, you will want to install the casters on the “feet” of the table and then work on the countertop and horizontal shelving for the bottom shelf and smoker shelf.
DIY Big Green Egg Table almost completed. Notice the casters installed on the table legs. You want to install these after the framing is completed, but before you start installing any of the 1×6 cedar floor and countertop.
Step 3: Cut the Hole for the Big Green Egg
After installing the floor and countertop, cut the opening for the Big Green Egg to sit in. Mark the center of the hole to be cut and use a nail, twine, and pencil to draw a smooth arc.
Step 4: Install the Sides and the Back of the Table
The sides and back are 1×6 cedar, trimmed at the top and bottom with 1×2 cedar to give it a more finished look. Finally… a finished product for the moment. Check out my youtube videos for the finishing touches and mounting the doors.
Step 5: Install the Trim Work
Install 1×2, 1×4, and 1×6 cedar on the front to give the Green Egg Table a more finished look. You want to cut these as tight as possible, as you will see the front of the table the most.
Step 6: Install the Doors and Hardware
Finally, we have doors! Soft closing European hinges make this a functional and fun grill table. Doors are constructed of 1×8 cedar. I like to use 5/8″ overlay hinges, which I find easy to install.
If you want detailed plans to build a table for a Large Big Green Egg, XL Big Green Egg, Classic Joe, or Big Joe Smoker, you can find all options available below for both sizes. The grill table plans contain detailed plans with dimensions, complete material lists, and detailed cut lists for each part of the project. If you are looking to save yourself some time, this is the way to do it.
If you are not sure if you want to build your own Grill Table, you may find my Tools and Resources Guide useful, which you can download below. It will give you a detailed list of tools, fasteners, and hardware that make this an easy build….
75 thoughts on “Build your own Big Green Egg Table in a Weekend”
I am currently building this table and I have a lot of oak (not sure if its red or white) however, it is rough cut and after I mill it down it is 3/4 to 1 inch thick. I feel that since this is oak that should be thick enough. What do you think? I’m also using pocket holes for most of the joinery with 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 screws
Hi Stephen! I think for most of the structure, 3/4″ or 1″ material is probably fine, depending how tall the boards are. 1×6 will not flex as much as 1×4 under pressure, etc. The one area I would double up would be the longer pieces for the main frame. For the 3 pieces that are closer to 8 ft I would double those up for sure, just to be safe. You don’t want to build this thing and then have it fail. As you build the main frame, I think you will have a good idea if its solid or not when you lift it to move it around a bit, before doing the finishing work. Have fun with it!
Keegan
That grill cover is $93. kinda steep for a cover.
Well, it is a big ass cover. I could not find a better option when I looked.
love this design. I am modifying it to hold a xl and large on each end with an island in the middle.
I plan on keeping it the same width and length as your design, do you think I should put an extra set of casters in the middle to counter the weight of two eggs?
That will be a nice setup… I would probably add supports/casters in the middle, just for peace of mind. Those eggs are such a pain to move… I think I would try to over do it a little so you know you are good. The other option would be to use 2×6 instead of 2×4 for the framing. Good luck with project… send me a pic when you get it wrapped up
Thanks Keegan, I’ll send some picks.
I am working on doing a double also. Any suggestions would be appreicated
I finally got started, I’ll post a few pics. I have a large and xl so I have different size openings. One thing I’m doing different is adding a granite top and 6 casters.
Cool… you will love the granite top. Probably going to go that route again when I build something more permanent.
Loving this and I am planning on building my own. I want to keep the cost low, so I don’t think I will be able to do the cedar. What are your thoughts on using pine? Do I go with pressure treated or just use non treated pine and then seal it?
Thoughts?
Yeah, I would use untreated pine to save money. The treated stuff will warp more and generally is tougher to work with. Just seal the crap out of it. You could even use a high grade plywood for the countertop if you seal it up good. If you are not keeping it under a covered porch, I would buy a cover for it. Sun / Rain are pretty tough on anything, sealed or not. Have fun with the project…. Keegan
Thank you for doing this!! I am planning on this for my weekend project. Now that you have had it for a while would you do anything different? Also did I miss the post on the drawers/shelves? Thanks again!
Hi Michael…. thanks for checking out the table. I would not do too much different for a table of this size. The only thing I might do differently, would be to make the depth of the table shorter…. so it is not quite as deep front to back. I would just take a few inches off. I have not added to this post yet, but check out Part 2 of this build on my youtube channel… https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HeHGGGmJxKk It shows the finishing touches and how to install doors. Turned out pretty good. Have fun with yours!
Hi,
I love the way you explained how to build this great looking table. I plan do build something similar.
Off-topic question: what software did you use to make the 3d pictures?
Richard
Thanks Richard… the 3D images are from Sketchup. You might already be familiar with it…. if not, the free version is pretty good for most projects after a little practice. Thanks for checking it out… Keegan
What size Casters do you recommend? 4” or 5”?
I think either one should be fine. If you are rolling it on smooth surfaces, the 4″ should be fine. Just double check the weight rating. Both of those should hold plenty of weight I would think.
Thank you, Keegan, for the plans and the excellent videos. I love your table and it inspired me to build one too. I tweaked it just a little to make it a little longer and poured a concrete countertop. used Thompsons water seal on the cedar and think it turned out really nice. All you great tips were very helpful. Thanks again.
You bet… happy to help. Having a good setup makes grilling/smoking so much more fun and easy. Thanks for the kind words. -Keegan
Getting started this weekend on my table and very thankful you posted this. I have an Xl egg, do you feel like you were pressing the limit with 2×4 framing for your Lg egg? Do you feel like I should bump it up to 2×6?
Hi Clinton,
It would not hurt to use 2×6 for the horizontal framing given how heavy the XL is. I would probably go that route for a little insurance. The vertical framing does not matter so much… you can still use 2×4 for that I would think. Have fun with the project…
Keegan
Testing, Testing
Great plans. Thanks for creating and sharing. I am going to customize to my size and plan to make this table.
awesome… you will love your table whenever you finish it up. I love seeing pictures if you can send one to me when you are done
I have been looking for a real nice table plan and this is the one. I like your layout on this and will be the one that I go with. Thanks for sharing this.
You bet… glad you found it useful… email me a picture when you are done if you remember!
This looks awesome, my buddy and I are going to build one for each of us, I am
Not very handy and was wondering if you had plans for an xl including the recommended 2×6 horizontal pieces you
Mentioned earlier.
I am currently working on putting together plans for the XL version. I hope to have things ready to publish in April. I just need to finish up some details. I will definitely write up a post when I have those ready… stay tuned
Sorry if I missed it, but do you know roughly what the all-in price was to finish the build?
Going from memory… I think it was around $500 at the time. If you want to save a little, use pine 2×4 for the interior framing (anything that will not see the sun).
Hi Keegan, great plans!! I want to build a table for my husband’s Big Kamodo Joe for Father’s Day. Can you tell me why you chose an open circle vs a closed circle for the cooker? Any pros and cons you know about his would be helpful!
Sure, mostly because it is easier to install and take out if needed. I had a closed circle setup for my very first table years a go, and it is tough to set in gently and quite tough to remove with out some extra help. It also leaves you a little room to adjust the position. Generally, the closer to the front the grill sets, the easier it is to reach in and clean out the ash, etc. Either way is fine though.
Hey, Keegan!
I already have a custom-built table, but I am not incredibly handy on my own and the table looks less than professional. Since I built the table for my XL, I’ve added a Medium to the family and I want to start over on the table to fit both of them.
I’m thinking of putting the XL and the Medium on the left side with countertop on the right. For the cooker opening in the counter, I’m thinking of just doing one big 54″ opening for the two Eggs. (My current table has a full circle for the XL. I LOVE your U-shaped opening for easier insertion and extraction!) . I’m going to beef up the single Egg platform for both Eggs with 2×6 cedar and the right side uprights will be 4×4 cedar posts that will extend to the ground for better support.
I’m trying to think of a way to inset a granite rectangular piece for the open countertop.
Another thing I’m considering changing is the casters. I don’t move my table, but I do need to use levelers because my patio has a grade for water to run away from the house. The levelers would be shorter than the casters. I think I’ll need to add a few inches to the length of the uprights to compensate for the difference in height.
Any other thoughts from you on this design?
hi chris, I do not have a ton of input. I would add 4 inches or so to the height to make up for the casters. The next plan set I design is going to be a dual egg setup. I think it will be an egg on each side and storage in the middle. Mainly because I would like counter space by both eggs. So, unless I make the counter very long, I think anchoring an egg on each side works the best. For the patio slope, you probably will not have to shim it too much to make it level. I would build it as if on a level surface and then shim the downhill side after setting the table in place if it bothers you. You might not really notice it too much. Have fun with the new build if you attack it!
I reconsidered my Eggs on the left, countertop on the right idea, and decided to go with your centered countertop because it will work best with my CyberQ controller for both Eggs.
I’m pleased with the end result! I found some heavy duty levelers (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDG5BSC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on Amazon that seem to have done the trick for me. It’s leveled out very nicely.
I’ll email you some pics of the finished table once I get the hardware installed.
Awesome…. Look forward to seeing that!
Keegan
Bought the plans and starting my build! Just have two questions…
1) In the plans, it looks like you install the bottom frame flush with the legs. In the pics here, it looks like the bottom frame is a few inches off the ground. Is there a compelling reason to go one way vs the other? And if it’s the way in the pic, how high up is the frame from the ground (sans casters)?
2) I’m thinking about adding some marble as a prep area, but just using a remnant. Trying to figure out how to adjust the plans. Would you suggest just adding in a couple more supports on one side and trimming down 1×6 planks on top around it? Just trying to figure out how to do it right so they have some extra support, but the top planks are still secure…
Hi Steve,
I did revise the plans a little bit from my build, so I would build it as shown in the plans, with the bottom frame flush with the legs. I think it makes it a little easier to build, and it also will give you a little more height in the storage cabinets.
For adding the marble remnant, it would depend a lot the dimensions and how thick the marble is. Generally, I would probably layout the countertop planks unsecured, make the cutout for the marble, then see what supports are needed for that along with any adjustments to the finished height.
Good luck with the build! Send me some pictures when you are done if you remember…
Keegan
Appreciate the quick response! Seeing that you actually responded to every question was one of the reasons I decided to purchase the plans. Almost done with the framing, things are moving right along!
Hi Keegan,
I am interested in having someone build that table for me but was wondering h if those plans are for The Large Big Green Egg? I am purchasing large Big Green Egg for my husband and am having someone build it for me so I will need to purchase the plans and want to make sure I purchase the right ones.
Hi Kaye, the Large Kamado table plans are the correct ones for you. I would love to use “large big green egg” in the title, but I am afraid I would get a letter from their lawyers at some point. It is designed for the large size though. If you pick the E-Book: Build Your Own Large Kamado Grill Table…. you will be all set. Let me know if you need anything else. Your husband will be thrilled! Thanks! Keegan
Hi Keegan
Thanks for your prompt response. Decided to purchase XL Bug Green Egg. Approximately how long do you think it would take to build this ?
After you gather up the materials, I would plan on 3 afternoons or so if the person has some skills. That is how long it took me. I am not an amazing wood worker, so I think a full weekend or several afternoons is a good approximation.
Really liking this table and am about to pull the trigger on the plans but wanted to see if you could get me a final dimensions to be sure it will even fit on our small back patio slab.
I appreciate it! (Will be the Large egg table)
Hi there! I think you might have already made the purchase, but the overall dimensions are 7’10” x 2’9″ when all said and done for the Large setup. Thanks for checking it out!
Nice video! How did you add the casters… I cannot tell from the video/images on where they are actually mounted? The “L” 2×4 isn’t big enough for the mounting plate, and the horizontal 2×4 aren’t either (that I can tell?)
Thanks much!
Hi Brian. Good question. For this original table I built in the video, I added 2×4 blocking to make the surface area larger at those 4 joints. For the plans I have selling on the website, I have the horizontal pieces at the same height of the legs at the bottom, so they create a larger area for the casters to mount on.
Hi Keegan,
I bought your XL plan. Question. How did you join the center 2×6 on the bottom frame. Did you Kreg Jig them??
Thanks
Hi Brian. You certainly could us the Kreg pocket hole jig if you want to take the time to do that. Or, you can use a countersink drill bit (you can also use the bit that comes with the Kreg Jig) to pre-drill from both sides at an angle and then use standard 2 3/4″ or 3 1/8″ screws to attach the bracing to the center 2×6. Similar concept to pocket holes, just easier and faster. That make sense?
That makes sense. How many screws did you use per short 2×6?
I tend to overdue things, so I would use 4 total screws for each side, or you could use 3 and stagger them.
I dont see the 3d images anymore. Are they still available? I am actually going to try and build a version of this without the middle part as I had an upgraded stand from my LBS and just need this for storage of all my accessories instead of having them all over the place. Thanks.
Hi Robert, I do not have the 3D images posted anymore. For more details on the dimensions, etc… they can be found in the plans I now sell on the website.
Yes, thanks, I bought them and printed them out!!! I am gonna remove the middle section, add drawers under the top, and add a full middle shelf using your design. Amateur here trying to learn!!!
I got the XL and tired of having stuff in kitchen and garage, like 4 different areas….
Thanks as I have seen this one evolve over the last 1.5 yrs!!!
Nevermind, bought, downloaded, printed, now reviewing to modify for removing the middle portion so 2 sides with extra shelf and room for XL accessories!
Thanks
How would you add drawers on both sides? Hmmm, another design decision.
Add 5 inches to the top section. Once done I can share.
cool… look forward to seeing what you come up with
I guess I do not have a short easy answer for that one. Lots of options on how to build drawers. Youtube has a bunch of tutorials on construction… that is always my starting point when I am figuring out a new design… https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=easy+drawers+diy
I’d like to see a table for the large BGE and MiniMax BGE, with storage for a Blackstone 17” griddle and room for the 20 gallon propane tank. Some built in drawers for wood chunk storage and accessories would be nice. Some drawers for the plate setter and cast iron grill top, would be great too. I think a table of this size would require 6 casters but I’ll leave that choice to you. Please show us your brushed aluminum top with this build, if you decide to build this project.
Hi Laura. You can expect plans for a dual egg setup sometime this winter. It is next on my list of design projects to get done for the grill tables. Several other designs for single Egg setups are in the works too and will be published soon. It will probably be designed for 2 Large Eggs, but you could easily modify it for a mini-max, medium, etc. instead of a large.
Could the plans be shifted to retro fit the grill to the left side of the table instead of the middle..??
For this setup, you could definitely shift everything left, but I would still try to have a small cabinet on the left side. It will be stronger that way and also provide a short section of countertop. I also recently posted some new plans on my other website https://grilltableplans.com/ that I have not written up posts on. There are plans for what I call a “sidecar” setup, like you are talking about for a more compact sized table.
Great..!! I like the 8 foot length table. I’ll go with your plans on the 8 footer and retro fit it…
Thanks
Edd
Nice work Keegan. I’ve taken your concept and am doing a side by side with a Kamado Joe on the left and a Weber gas grill on the right. Storage with door in the middle. Best of both worlds! Thank you for the idea and design!
You bet… glad you found the ideas useful for your own concept
Hey I have a fellow building your table For me I have a large green egg. He gave me a material list which included 8 2×4 and 9 2×6. I’m thinking the material list I purchased were for the XL egg. Will it matter? Can I use the 2×6 framed table with the large egg.
If he is using the XL plans, it will still work. You will just have a bigger table. Just make sure he cuts the opening for the egg the right size, or it will look strange. You can use 2×6 for the large plans too, but you would have to adjust some measurements along the way.
I finished building this table a couple weeks ago. As a novice to Woodworking, I found this guide to be very simple and easy to follow. The graphics along with the text descriptions and YouTube Videos were enough for me to complete this project. I had a couple questions during the process, that Keegan responded to quickly (within a couple of hours). I am very happy with how the grill table turned out. I would highly recommend building this table. I purchased Keegan’s Table Cover and that fits perfectly around the table with the Egg installed. I am looking forward to utilizing this table year round. Thank you for the plans!
Hi! About to buy the plans for the Large table. Really like the design. Two quick questions though …
1) Any suggestions about how to minimize fire risk? I’ve read horror stories about wooden BGE tables catching fire. That said, the table I have now is wood and the egg rests on a large paver. I don’t think anything gets hot around the egg but these stories I’ve read have me startled. Thinking of maybe lining the space for the egg with fire bricks. Thoughts about that? Would obviously need to adjust a few measurements. Just curious about fire risk from your perspective.
2) I’m hoping to store my charcoal in one cabinet. I currently use a metal trash can w/ lid to keep it dry and out of the humidity we have. How weather proof are the cabinets if built strictly to your plans? Same goes for bug infiltration (roaches, spiders, etc)? Considering lining the inside of each cabinet with concrete backer board to minimize moisture infiltration.
Thanks! Looking forward to getting started. My current table is literally disintegrating a little more every day.
For fire risk, I suggest using a piece of granite on the shelf and then using the Green Egg Table legs on top of the granite. To further help with risk, you could use aluminum flashing to line the entire area around the green egg. I think a lot of people also make a mistake by not cutting the countertop hole large enough. I like to have about an inch around the egg. That being said… never leave your grill raging hot and walk away. If you have your smoker under control at low temperatures, it will be fine.
The countertops in this plan will let some moisture in, so use a container that has a lid for your charcoal. If you want no moisture, then join the countertop planks together and glue them up. Or use granite if you want to spend the money.
Never had an issue with bugs, but they can get anywhere.
Awesome! Thanks for getting back to me!
Does the measurements for the hole for the BGE allow for the hinge area or does the BGE sit high enough to clear the countertop? Ran into this issue when I did my slate outdoor kitchen at old house.
p.s. Really enjoy your videos and builds.
Hey Glenn, the if you are building it for a Green Egg, the hinge will sit above the countertop. The hole is big enough for the body of the Egg plus a little extra room so it does not touch the counter. As you build it, I would still check the height needed to clear the counter on your Green Egg, and you can adjust the shelf height if needed. Old models vs new models of Eggs have changed over time a bit with this measurement.